When I formulate a relaxer with Crodafos CES, at what point will I observe phase inversion?
Once the water and oil phases have been homogenized (sans the alkali) and the temperature has fallen to 65-70ºC, a side-sweeping blade is used as the emulsion cools. At 40-50ºC, the Crodafos CES emulsion begins to show signs of separation and inversion. As the temperature falls further, the emulsion appears cottage cheese-like. This is normal, as it is exactly what the emulsion is designed to do as it cools down. The emulsion experiences this before the addition of the sodium hydroxide and reforms itself after the base has been added. What is occurring here reflects the dual action of the alkali in the Crodafos CES system. Unlike its role in conventional relaxers, the alkali acts, not only as the active ingredient, but also as a base to neutralize Crodafos CES. It is this in situ neutralization that triggers reformation of the emulsion. While the emulsion is likely to go through yet another stage of separation in the course of cooling down, it ultimately comes together, forming a very
