It’s not easy being a sour cherry in this town. The sweeter varieties get all the attention, especially now, as the local season reaches its peak. The slightly smaller, softer-fleshed, shorter-stemmed sours tend to spook people, says Greenmarket spokeswoman Gabrielle Langholtz. Aside from pie, no one really knows what to do with them. But cooked with sugar for just a few minutes, they’re much more cherry-y than sweet cherries. Not to mention sublime on yogurt, ice cream, or pancakes. Yet according to Savoy’s Peter Hoffmanwho throws caution to the wind and eats them raw, and also poaches them to accompany a mean lavender moussethe situation may be even more dire than Langholtz realizes. I don’t know if you’ve ever had clafouti or a cherry pie and thought that it wasn’t a very interesting dish, he says. I have. The culprit, he says, is a sweet cherry masquerading as a soura travesty that seems to occur everywhere outside Michigan, which is sour-cherry country. You don’t get the complexit